Merivale's Ash Street Cellars was the restaurant that made the Sydney laneway popular. It was then followed by Felix. Now two more are slated. Source: Supplied
LANEWAY-LIKE Ash Street, tucked away behind Sydney's mighty George, is fast turning into a food precinct of note.
Hot on the back of news the Fratelli Paradiso/10 William Street team is setting up a branch in Ash (subject to negotiations with SCC over a lease, working title "Paradiso") we learn that prominent Sydney caterer David Allison (Stix) has taken a space directly opposite for Gramercy, opening early next year. And, yes, it's a New York-inspired concept "but this won't be something that fits in pigeon holes", says head chef-to-be Sean McCarthy. "It will be an upmarket bistro style but not going hard on any particular cuisine. Just inspired by the international nature of that city." Ash Street, of course, already has Ash Street Cellars and Felix. The build begins right after Christmas; Stix is already using the space for functions.
IT was a short season for sommelier Chris Crawford at Melbourne's Lucas Group (First Bite, October 23) where he was all over the booze at Chin Chin and Baby. Crawford, widely respected in his field, has said "yes" to a big job and undoubtedly a big pay rise at Crown Melbourne, where he will become director of wine for the "world of entertainment's" many restaurants. "Chris and I depart on good terms," said Crawford. For his part, Lucas said: "It's a great career opportunity for Chris working for a large gaming company and (I) wish him all the best. He has been replaced from within existing management."
GIVEN Crown owns more restaurants than anybody else in Australia, news from within the empire is important; thus the resignation of executive general manager of food and beverage Nicolas Kurban after a relatively brief 12 months is something of a surprise. Also on the move is Crown veteran Kym Barter, general manager, restaurants, for the past five years at the Southbank behemoth, so there is generational change happening at Crown on the restaurant front. Barter is moving offshore with a big job within the Nobu corporation just as Crown is about to launch a new Izakaya-style restaurant, Gochi. A 40-seater, Gochi, opening April opposite Giuseppe Arnaldo, will focus on yakitori, beer and sake.
A SYDNEY Morning Herald Good Food Guide without Terry Durack editing? Yes, the 2014 Guide (the one that comes out this year, strange system) will now be edited by Guide veteran and respected food journo Joanna Savill, solo. Durack's name will appear on the cover as "senior reviewer". Durack returned to Sydney from Britain in 2009 with the Herald reviewing gig for Good Food (nee Good Living) and co-editorship of the Guide with Savill. The move poses the question: where does the final decision-making power on scores and hats rest? Presumably, with the editor. The spin is that Durack will remain as influential as ever, particularly with his wife Jill Dupleix on the small "senior reviewers panel", but without the admin headaches of editorship. Behind the scenes, it's been suggested the menage a trois might have occasionally been a little awkward.
SHUFFLING the deckchairs at Davis Yu's mini Melbourne empire this week sees Sean Rudd moving up the road shortly to Claremont Tonic from Louie to fill Dylan Roberts's shoes (First Bite, March 19). Rudd knows the modern Asian territory well, having set up Mopho Noodle Bar a few years back with Chin Chin's Ben Cooper. We understand a chef by the name of Simon Meagher will be taking on the hip-hop elegant Louie opposite King's Domain.
FOOD consultant Damien Pignolet leaves Paddington's Bellevue this week after eight months in the role of executive chef. He is reported as saying he has done "everything I can at the Bellevue". He is said to be keen to continue consultancy.
ONE of Melbourne's most interesting food openings this month may not be a restaurant. Following acclaim for the Via Primavera (Spring Street, gettit?) gelateria a few doors along from their European/Supper Club complex, Con Christopoulos and Josh Brisbane are set to open Spring St Grocer, a beautifully designed food and sandwich store upstairs with a seriously spectacular sub-terrain tiled cheese room below. There will be space for a few tables, coffee, wine and antipasti. The big coup for the joint proprietors is Anthony Femia as operations manager. Femia is an awarded cheesemonger. And he's Italian.
lethleanj@theaustralian.com.au
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